New Friends

The Dome House: created a local debate when it was first builtAs our road trips so often are .. this one was as unpredictable. Who would have thought that along the way we would come across a …Dome! Our curiosity got the better of us and so we decided to just go down and introduce ourselves and see what we could see. What we found was a warm welcome from a charming family who held an impromptu get-together on their veranda and kindly introduced us to their neighbor, the owner of the unusual ‘Dome Home’ next door.

Our new friends had strong opinions regarding some of the Island’s highlights and absolutely insisted that we drive over to Brackley Beach to take in a “Ceiledh” (go figure – it’s pronounced KAY-LEE). We are so grateful to them for having pointed us in the right direction! What an evening we had! Let me introduce you to a 21-year-old dynamo by the name of Cynthia MacLeod.

Wednesday was an opportunity for us to unleash our creativity. DJ tried her hand at painting… on the beach, brushes stuck in the sand at the ready to do her biding.. in the company of a marvelous storyteller Maurice Bernard, who coaxed the (very dormant) unknown artist from within her. What joy to discover the power of color and paint your very own masterpiece! We should all create at least one painting in our lifetime! Later that afternoon, John and Katherine revisited earlier times when father and daughter built a sandcastle together. This time they learned (from very versatile Maurice) how to add turrets, winding staircases and much drama to their extraordinary castle. It was with a pang of regret that we saw the mounting tide take away this bit of ephemera… oh well, we’ll just have to build another one again!

That night we stayed at Briarcliffe - a Bed and Breakfast owned and graciously hosted by Bill and Mary Kendrick. On arriving, a little sign by the front door bide us welcome and, before even turning off the Premag, there was Bill coming to greet us. Mary was trying to convince the official greeting committee (the pups) to restrain their joy at seeing us. Do take the time to look up Bill and Mary. They certainly go out of their way to make your stay a very memorable one.

Thursday -A Must-Visit Museum, Wearable Dirt and the Best Steak of 2007

Thursday we found ourselves in Summerside. You can shop the little boutiques along the pier.... and/or discover the Eptek Art & Cultural Centre as we did. Represented within its intimate showroom exhibit, we found some amazingly talented artists.

Dj was thrilled to meet a most unconventional and charming young rug hooker who was creating dazzling pieces that shimmered in the light. That day she was working on a Fish (?) rug - her interpretation of a Dr Seuss (!) character. As her nimble fingers flew (she's been doing this for quite some time and makes it seem deceptively simple), vibrant colors along with bits of shiny fabric came to life as a whimsical, joyful work of art.

Then there's Lucy, the (larger-than-life) papier-mâché knitter in the corner (complete with sagging socks) whose obvious disarray did not impede her utter concentration. You'll even find a ‘rescued mermaid' keeping an eye on everyone. There is so much talent tucked away on that little island! Bluer than blue skies and the shockingly vibrant red dirt... is that where the inspiration for these artists comes from?

Speaking of dirt..
When most Island moms are vainly trying to remove stains from clothing left behind by the tenacious red earth - a fellow by the name of Michael Wheeler decided not to fight a losing battle. He graciously met with us to share the story behind his PEI DIRT SHIRTS (amongst other things).

From art to dirt to clay to... the DUNES. How to describe this eclectic vision? Asian inspired gardens complete with resting Budhas, fountains, sculptures (some of which are actually functional and very comfortable outdoor furniture) are tucked away in the back of the principal buildings. Enter on one side and you will find one-of-a-kind clothing creations, accessories (jewelry, scarves, etc.), small sculptures and wooden wall art. The compelling displays lead you on a meandering tour of the premises.

Without really noticing how you went from one side of the building to another and yet another, you will pass by many pieces of art along the way. Blown glass, paintings, unusual kitchen accessories, quirky wooden birds marching almost arrogantly across an interesting shelf.. and then there's the pottery. Beautiful in its (seeming) simplicity, it is tastefully displayed for your enjoyment. From lamps and accessories to dinnerware, you'll be hard pressed not to find something to fall in love with in just the right color for you. But that's not all. Keep exploring. Go up and you'll discover a vantage point from which to enjoy your surroundings. You might even have come across the actual "pottery", shelves brimming with tomorrow's creations.

Keep exploring even further, or better yet, follow your nose! Now you're at a lower level and have found a hidden oasis with a view of the gardens beyond. Casually called the Café, its name belies what follows. Welcome to Emily's world! High priestess of enticing aromas, she and her team casually (or so it seems - for only the talented can make it look so effortless)and artfully create absolutely decadent meals. Once in awhile, she will take a quick peek to see how her guests are enjoying their meal. Reassured, she continues to create...

Friday we were back to a schedule - Oyster fishing (my mother, an unrepentant Maritimer stranded in Ontario, chastised me for referring to oyster harvesting as "fishing". If the verb is inappropriate I humbly apologize. It is called fishing or "tonging" in P.E.I.

That evening we dined in Cardigan - the town, not the dress code. (I'm ashamed to admit I owned an Ingo cardigan sweater when I was in my teens. Thankfully no photographs survive.) Prince Edward Island is overflowing - from church basements to legion halls to Aunt Clara's parlor - with Lobster Suppers, some good - some not so good. But there is only one Cardigan Lobster Supper. Stay tuned for details - or call them and make a reservation yourself.
We slept at the Inn at Bay Fortune.
Saturday I spent time talking with the owner of the Inn and got a great tour of the hotel, the grounds and kitchen. We toured the Eastern Shore, dropped into Canada's smallest library and then headed for Charlottetown. As the proud owners of a race horse (for a couple of hours anyway) we spent an evening at the Charlottetown Driving Park and Entertainment Centre. We were exhausted and also looked forward to a good night's sleep at the Inn on the Harbour.
Sunday - our last full day on the island we were privileged to have Tracy Stretch from Tourism Charlottetown as our guide for a tour of the city from a natives perspective. We had a late lunch at Flex Mussels and then Monday we headed for home.
To all the people we met - both islanders and those from "away" we want to tell you what an absolute pleasure it was spending time in your company.
We owe a huge debt of gratitude to the folks at Tourism PEI. They went out of their way to hook us up with innkeepers, activity planners, restaurateurs and business people we wanted to meet. Simply from a vacation planning point of view the Tourism P.E.I. web site is a model other provinces would do well to emulate.